Wednesday, September 9, 2009

And... the Grace Note.

Here I am!


Writing my final manifesto/research paper on this trip, I’m thinking on re-reading it that it rings more philosophical than I might have intended. If you don’t want to hear a bit of my thoughts on travel, people and life, then you’re not really in the right place. There’s an exit behind you, but I’d rather you stay.

I’ve sat on this task for almost a full 8 months now, and it’s finally over a year after I left that I’m sitting down with real determination to write the final chapter of this story. I’m calling it a story because I think of it as a story; it’s a tale of experiences, people met, times had and sometimes a mere recounting of deeds done. There’s a cast of dozens, most of whom you (my patient and wonderful audience) haven’t met in name but have heard of as you read this blog over the months I spent in a little town called Beijing.

Alright, kids. I’m going to give you a bit of a rundown on why I haven’t actually written this for so long. The creative lie would be that I’ve been busy. The honest truth would be that every time I’ve sat down and attempted to write a few pages on such a massively life changing experience, I’ve had to re-live the memories. And the worst thing about re-living memories of people you don’t have around you all the time is that you miss those. It’s not a ‘I miss the days when the Simpsons was funny’ sort of feeling. It’s more a ‘Fuck. Here I sit, 8 months after last seeing these people and I still wake up with their faces on my mind.’ It’s love in a deeply platonic sense; the transitory nature of these trips makes you seek out someone, anyone, with whom you can share yourself. If you’re lucky, those people share right back. That’s where the trouble begins.

I’m honestly trying to keep this away from a depressing, monotone recollection of memories most of weren’t there for. Really, I am. But every time I think of China, I think of what Sarah told me. I’ve said it before, and I’m going to keep saying it until the day it rings false: The best and worst things about travel are the people you meet. Everything I’ve said on those words is in earlier entries, so if you want context you might just have to scroll down and dive into those words I typed an entire world ago.

In terms of a simple State of the Union, my trip to China was initially intended as one of those ‘find yourself’ sort of moments. I was 22 and had lived at home my entire life. Despite working steadily since I was 14, I have lived both a sheltered and privileged life; a gift I don’t think I could repay my parents no matter how much ‘rent’ increases. I read, while in China, that anyone who travels to ‘Find themselves’ is bound for bitter disappointment. Count me as proof. I don’t know myself. I don’t know what I want in this world. I don’t see where I fit. I don’t know whether I’m fit for a ‘career’ in an office or whether I’m one of those guys destined to work at the end of a shovel until his knees wear out.


And you know what? This ‘lost’ feeling isn’t as depressing as it sounds. To me, the whole problem of not knowing something means that there’s just that much more learning to do. And if any of you actually know me, learning about ‘stuff’ is something I love.

So, China didn’t result in me coming home a fully rounded person confident in their abilities to take the world by the proverbial balls. It did not make me a genius. It did not even make me fluent in Mandarin (though I can still order a pepperoni pizza). What it did do was make me more than I was. It make me more confident. It make me realize that even if I don’t know what it is I want, I know that I’m not just going to settle for whatever works at the time.

It’s made me conscious of the people around me. How easy it is to connect yourself to other people. I’ve missed people I see every day of my life here in Calgary, just like I’ve missed people I’m honestly probably going to never see again. I keep in touch with the people who meant the most to me in both situations, and if I didn’t please don’t assume you mean nothing. It means that I’m fallible. I’m a human. I’m a scatterbrained, disorganized person who often forgets that zippers go on the –front- of his pants.

So. What did China teach me? It taught me that of all the things I love to do, the thing that terrifies me through to exhilaration the most is the meeting of people. Making friends. I’m learning, just now, how my times in Beijing taught me how to do that, even if it’s a skill I may never master. Travel, in any form it takes, is among the best ways to do just that; meet new people. There’re a million plus people in my home city, but there’s something about sharing the experience of sitting on a pole boat in the middle of rural Liuyang with a guy from Sweden that gets rid of all those trappings of the ‘modern western world’ that get in the way. Small talk be damned; laughing at your mutual failed attempts when trying to explain something to someone who doesn’t speak your language is something that transcends ‘the weather’.


And that leaves life at home. Living amongst friends I’ve known for so much longer than 5 months in another country. People who understand me in deep, essential ways who aren’t surprised or offended when I’m 5 minutes late to tea. People who I would give everything I had to, if only for a smile. It means a world of bills, the ring of a work phone, the seemingly endless grind of getting up at 6:45am to smash the alarm clock into silence. But it’s these things that make moments outside ‘real life’, whether it’s wiping away tears of laughter because your best friend made a particularly clever play on words (often incorporating ‘your’ and ‘mom’) or wiping away their tears of frustration after another part falls off their car and their rent’s due so crucial. Work is something I enjoy. I wouldn’t work the ridiculous hours I have if I didn’t enjoy spending time being busy. But it’s a means to an end.

And here’s where I wrap it all up. The biggest lesson China taught me is that I crave experiences. I don’t want material trappings. I don’t want a pretty car without cracks in the fenders. I don’t want to own the newest, brightest, shiniest electronic toys because my ‘friends’ have a new one. I want to make money and then through any means possible transmute those dollars and cents into memories. I crave the ability to tell stories; regardless of the reaction from any given audience. The fact that these are real moments, saccharine or bittersweet, that I’ve lived means that it’s all worth the time and effort. I want not just physical or digital images of places I’ve been, but mental recordings of my friends dancing in the middle of an ancient Chinese village or laughing so hard beer comes out their nose. Travel is, in my opinion, how I can best create those experiences.

So, in the remaining sentences of the most writing I’ve ever done without being mandated by a University professor, I’m going to thank some people.

Thank you to my friends at home. Without your support, love and grounding influence, I don’t think I’d be the sort of person who could keep a straight face while embarrassing myself in front of a desk full of 18 year old Chinese girls. You keep me down when I get a little too high. You’ve taught me that laughing at myself is often the best way to get other people to laugh. You’ve taught me that being proud, cocky or big headed is a great way to lose someone who I care for. Without you, I’d have no courage to do anything I want to do. I’d love to thank you individually, because my memories with each of you are my shelter against any storms that pass my way, but I’m running out of words.

Thanks to my family; my sisters, cousins, aunts and uncles and everyone else in that mishmash of blood ties. You’re the network of people I grew up in. Of all the people in my life, you’ve been constants; changing as I’ve changed but always being the sort of person who I could relate to as ‘Uncle X’ or ‘My cousin Y’. Without your interest and lifelong support, I don’t know if I’d be who I am today and I don’t really know how to thank you for that other than a few heartfelt words.

Thanks to my parents. You’re separate from ‘my family’ only because your contributions can’t be understated. You, probably more than anyone, have taught me how to be who I am today. You’re not just a safety net, but also a driving force. When I was a precocious little brat who loved to read ‘World Fact Books’ and thus knew everything, you both always made sure I realized there’s always stuff I need to learn. You wouldn’t accept less than my best in school or work, but in a way that made me realize failures are a great lesson in cause and effect. And now, come time to grow up, you’re right there pushing with one hand and steadying with the other. Because of you both, I’ve led a pretty damned charmed life. I just hope that I can take what you’ve taught me and make my own way. Thanks.

And to the people I met in China. You all make me cripplingly sad. You’re wonderful, wonderful people who I can honestly say I barely knew, but really understood. And here we are, forced to rely on e-mail until one of us gets up the means to jump off-continent and visit ‘Foreign’ for a hug and a knowing grin. For some of you, our friendship centered on laughing at each other and ourselves until we couldn’t breathe; weaving a love of music and learning about other cultures into that fabric. Others gave me weeks of memories giggling our way through smoke and Qingdao at simple words denoting parts of the female anatomy. Another brought to me a new confidence in myself as a person in so many ways that my head still spins; leaving me with an addiction to one song that still chokes me up. Still more brought to me a breathless excitability about anything new; taking me by the hand and running us both into the unknown, consequences be damned.

To everyone that made me who I was last September and who I am today, thanks. It wouldn’t have been the same without you. I’m going to travel my whole life through; this is one of those few things I know.

I called this blog Beijing Bound because that was my destination then. I like the sub-title better. Here’s to living your live as original research; collecting memories and experiences for whatever tests life throws you in the days to come.


- Nathan

Monday, January 19, 2009

Penultimate

In a flight of fancy, I've decided that this is going to be the second last entry in this blog. This is influenced only mildly by the 白酒 that my friend Ben and I consumed at dinner (along with 青岛; China's defacto 'light' beer). What follows is largely stream of consciousness, so be forewarned.

I promised you all some deep introspection into my stay in China, and deliver on that promise I shall. I'm writing while coming down off a caffeine buzz and a chinese-liquor drunk, so I apologize if there is any problems with coherence. I'm also in a bit of a melancholy and wistful state.

In 13 hours (8 of which are allotted for sleep), I will be on a tube of metal screaming through the upper stratosphere towards cold weather, family and good friends I've left behind for the previous 5 months. I've never been this far away from hearth and home before, and the amount it's taught me about myself is staggering. The amount I've learned about others is almost as amazing.

One friend here, one very very good friend I don't think I'm going to let go of, told me that the worst part about travelling is the people you meet. Here you are, temporarily displaced from everything familiar and comfortable. You're alone, sometimes for the first time, and you crave human contact. In this vulnerable moment, you're deeply involved in the mind-numbing panic and boredom of eating lunch alone again in a packed cafeteria full of people chatting in an alien tongue. Who should come along but someone who's essentially destined to be your friend. People who share your interests, sense of humor, taste in music and everything but country of origin seem to find you in the crowd. Or you find them.

Then, months later, some great big breaker in your mind suddenly slams shut when sitting at a dinner after laughing so hard that your stomach hurts. Like a slap to the face, you realize that these people will, in all likeliness, never be in the same room again at the same time. Looking from face to face, you drink in expressions, accents, stories and laughter to hold on to the memory of people you've known for such a brief time. People who, if you had lived next door to them your whole life, would be sitting beside you as your bones creaked in shit weather a few dozen years down the road. Tears well up before the Aussie across the table laughs so hard beer spurts out her nose. Then everything's obliterated in white hot laughter as the table erupts again and the locals question your sanity.

The worst thing about travelling is the people you meet. It's the most glorious thing, too. Landscapes bedamned, historical sightseeing is for photographs and culture fades. The best thing about spending time immersed in another nation is the people you meet and the friendships you make. Bittersweet joy abounds as you share explorations of this strange new land. You give freely of yourself and accept whatever it is they offer of themselves; knowing that these people have no reason to trust you other than you trust them. You find humor in cultural differences and laugh endlessly about how everyone's supposed to be speaking English but no one can ever get their damned point across.

Then they leave.

Or you leave.

Sooner or later, real life digs deep and reels everyone back in. No one's a permanent fixture anywhere. Some say 'home is where you make it', but the problem is in coordinating with those near and dear exactly where we should set up shop.

I'm rambling. I'm sad, and mildly intoxicated, and this is the end result. I'm attempting to wax poetic and organize thoughts that simply refuse to cooperate.

I've met so many wonderful people from all walks of life. I've learned so much. So much. I've learned about the Chinese; their language, culture, traditions, cuisine and daily life. That was expected and indeed the point of the trip.

What I didn't expect was to learn the word 'bogan'. Or to listen to an Australian girl ask a French girl in Chinese how to say 'Regular' in English. Or skull VB while cheering on Hawthorne as they blitzed toward an AFL title. Or skate on a frozen lake in downtown Beijing while helping a new friend not fall on her arse. Or change the way I speak my own language in the name of hacking out a common pinyin so everyone can understand me regardless of origin. Or cry when friends left, despite having known them a relatively tiny portion of my time on this earth.

I'm sad for having to leave. I'm sad for the knowing that of all I've met, e-mail is our best bet for prolonging the relationships we've made. I'm sad for having to say goodbye.

But do I have any regrets? Yes. Those aren't for public airings, though. My regrets are my own.

One thing I never, ever, will regret is the time I've spent in Beijing. I've learned a truly immense amount about both myself and the world around me. My mind races daily with exactly how my time here in Beijing will dictate the course of my life in future years.

Thank you. Everyone who I've met in Beijing, whether I enjoyed your company or not. Knowing you has taught me something; about myself, yourself or the world. The knowledge is invaluable and I appreciate it.

For now, I've got to get packing and then get some sleep. I'm for a final breakfast in 五道口 tomorrow before I leave.

Thanks for reading these entries, if you have. After I've been home for a bit, I'll polish up the blog and the trip. There's so much to think about that I don't think I'll be ready to put the final bookend on this trip for a while.

One more left...

- Nathan

Saturday, January 10, 2009

T-Minus 9

Hello all,

As usual, it's been quite a while since I've last written anything here. I don't really have a good explanation as for why. A lot of it has to do with the end of the semester being a busy time. People are leaving or already gone. I've said goodbye to a lot of good friends made here that, truth be told, I'll like-as-not never see again. One of the reasons I've sort of shied away from writing this blog is because I know that it's going to be the penultimate post in China. Because I don't really feel like spending a few thousand words analyzing my time in China when I'm supposed to be studying for my Tingli final tomorrow, I'm just going to make this an update on my times here since I last posted.

Christmas was unusual, to say the least. At the bottom of this post are photos of my activities on the 25th of December. We started the day out with YiHeYuan, the summer palace, and wandered around there for a bit. Some of those with us hadn't even walked on a frozen lake, so there was much exclamation and unsafe tramping over ice-bound water. After this, I went ice-skating in HouHai (a large park in downtown Beijing full of bars and a big lake) with Sarah and some of her friends from Australia and France. It was a lot of fun, truth be told, and I actually got to prove that Canadians are born and bred to move on ice. The fact that I was the first person to fall has nothing to do with anything; I MEANT to slip and land on my ass. We then went and spent a little too much money on bad hot chocolate, which is still welcome after 2 hours in cramped skates.

The cap on an unusual but good Christmas was Jenny and Me gorging ourselves on Sichuan hot pot and YanJing beer! Ate so much good food... I think I was in a bit of a food coma afterwards. Photos of our 'spread' are blurry, but also below.

Flash forward to New Years (happy birthday to Mayan in the days between), we did what everyone normally does on the 31st of December! We went for Teppanyaki at Tairyo. This is a place with downright _amazing_ food and all-you-can-drink sake and beer. We ate a lot of great japanese food and drank way more alcohol than was healthy. After this, we went to HouHai (again) to stand in a crowded bar and listen to loud, bad music while drinking sugary champagne. Saw the President of China get on tv and give an address. Sarah translated for me, though this basically amounted to her repeating to me the words that I also understood when HuJinTao said them! After this, I went home and slept for a day and a bit.

The semester has wound up as of last wednesday. I sit here facing three solid days of finals; 1.5 hours a day worth of tests for the 12th, 13th and 14th. Tomorrow morning is Listening (TingLi) at 8:00am and will undoubtedly be my _hardest_ test by a large margin. My listening skills in Chinese are worlds better than they were before I came to China, which is to be expected. I can usually understand everything that's being said by teachers and fellow students, while only understanding about 60% of what a local says to me (provided I know what the context of the conversation is about!). This is way better than 4.5 months ago when I arrived, when I felt like I understood pretty much nothing. Still, the concept of 'fluency' is something I can't even consider yet. It feels like the progress made is a tiny, tiny step in the right direction, which is somewhat discouraging. Still, I don't regret coming here. Not at all.

Like I said, the last week or three have been busy but largely within the ordinary bounds of ordinary life. I've scaled back considerably on the drinking but eat out every night. The campus food is bland and unoriginal; being more 'fuel' than 'food'. I'm stressed but not unreasonably considering exams are upon us. I've got my next semester at the U of C all kitted out and I'm looking to graduate in the spring; something I'm still a little shocked about. It's a little intimidating being this close to a bachelors degree while knowing that I need to start making serious decisions about the course of my life from this point on.

Annnnyways. I said I wasn't going to get all introspective this time. That's for a few days time, after everything in my room is packed up and I'm all melancholy about leaving Beijing.

Oh. Special thanks to my mom and dad for the Tim Hortons. I've already finished a tin. I think I'm more addicted to coffee now than I ever have been before. It's delicious and I'm trying to limit myself to 3 cups a day. This is helped by the fact that it's a pain in the ass to make a cup. Anyhow, thanks for the care package!

Thanks for reading and being patient, folks. I really do hope everyone is well and happy.

Enjoy the photos below:

Me standing somewhat awkwardly on skates. I blame the skates.

The 'Christmas' skating group heading to... WuDaoKou for something or other.

This is us at YiHeYuan (The Summer Palace) on Christmas Day.

Again, us on Christmas Day. I pretty much just liked Andrew's pose on the right. He insisted that it made him look 'dignified'

Random Stache Pic! I just found this on Facebook and liked how I appear to be grooving to my own inner beat.

Jenny and I with our Christmas Hot Pot Feast!

More photos of Hot Pot!

A Bridge at YiHeYuan

Jon, one of the Aussie's, walking on a lake. I like this photo. I like it a lot.

Sarah and Claire under a gate on Christmas day.

Lions on the bridge in the above photos.

"The Largest Pagoda of Its Type", or so said the sign. Sarah and Matthew make another appearance.

The above pagoda, this time with better cameratography skills.

Pseudo-artsy photos of rocks! Pretentious!

Sarah grinning from ear-to-ear because she's Standing on Ice.

Yinkuan NOT grinning because she's trying not to fall on ice.